Paris-the city of love, lights, and life. Last time I was here I frolicked about in a lightweight dress and made my meals from iced Pastisse drinks. Now I am bundled up in Parisian scarves eating hot cheese and drinking hot chocolate (although not together) in order to stay warm.
Trent, the fourth, has arrived to join the journey and join us, the “three trenchcoats” for afternoon city jaunts, late dinners, and even later conversations. Like us, she is completely enamored with Paris.
Paris is a city like no other for its ability to inspire, confuse, and make one fall in love. The very air here makes one susceptible to feel l’amour, even if there is no one in particular to feel it for other than a pain au chocolat. I actually worry that one of us will swoon over a particularly flakey croissant and become so smitten that she won’t be able to leave the pastry shop for the planned tour of the day.
The day tours so far have consisted of modern art museums, funky boutiques, neighborhood brasseries, and the occasional crepe stand. It has never been my intent to write a guidebook (and it would bore the average tourist as all I would write about would be cheese and macaroon shops), but I will provide a tiny taste of a few neighborhoods we seem to frequent the most.
Montmartre: The site of the Moulin Rouge, Amelie Poulain’s kiss, and the infamous steps up to Sacré-Cœur for an unparalleled view of the city. The steps up to Sacré-Cœur were flooded with tourists and locals and multiple guitarists and bracelet makers trying to make a quick buck (or Euro which is today’s sad exchange rate equals $1.50). After walking up the steps we found a multitude of shops, one in which Valerie found a Parisian vintage necklace too perfect to let the exchange rate get her down. Afterall, we are trying to look the part of French ladies (even though our loud American voice usually give us away).
St Germain des Pres: The site of our humble home, zillions of sidewalk cafes (yes Parisians sit outside to drink even when it’s minus freezing out), and tiny tempting shops. I adore the French (and European) propensity to have a little shop particular for one thing. The Fromagerie for cheese. The Boulangerie for bread, and the Epicerie for small cans of pickles and jams. The quaintness makes one want to grocery shop all day long. And I would if St Germain des Pres didn’t have all these tiny restaurants to check out. Our neighborhood has been scene of many 3 hour long dinners fueled with wine and laughter. I am positive that our loud banter, very un-politically correct jokes, and repeat of amusing French words wherever possible (derriere) are offensive to our polite French neighbors but what can we do? We are from the west and even if we resemble cowboys in a tea shop, at least we are having a blast.
The Marais: The Marais offers eclectic charm, the up and coming designer shops, and the Picasso and Pompidou modern art museums. After a unexpected long visit at the Pompidou (for some reason modern art grabs me much more than the “yawn” pastoral paintings of more classical artists) we set off to think profound thoughts before entering amazing boutiques with visual merchandising that must have borrowed the Pompidou’s curator. Sadly no one can afford anything—we have spent all our money on pastries.
Enough of a taste for now—it’s almost time for the aperitif! More to come in Paris, Part Deux….
Tuesday, October 20, 2009
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