Bollywood Blues and the Spice(y) Island

Bollywood Blues

As some my have noted from my facebook.com “status updates” on the delicious state of my lower intestine, my last day in Mumbai was anything but Bollywood glam. Yes, India had decided to give me a farewell present. Terrible food poisoning. Here I had been bragging about my iron stomach and relished chugging down any type of street food. I wasn’t sure if that’s what finally caught up to me….or the fact that I ate the unusual my first night in Bombay---I steered away from the dodgy stands and treated myself to a 5 star course meal including sinful meat (chicken..it may be a while before anything red crosses my lips) and a sip of wine. The next morning I woke up in a cold sweat and knew I couldn’t part with my new best friend, loo (after "the loo"), for more than an hour or so. However, I was restless to see the city and stupidly decided to keep my city tour reservation. In-between all the Jain temples, Portuguese buildings, and artistic churches I made my guide take a few detours to the “shrine of the porcelain goddess.” Desperate, I decided to finally turn to my friend Cipro. The side effects listed on the pill bottle intrigued me:

Common side effects: Rash, vomiting, diarrhea, nausea. Wait? Aren't these they very symptoms this darn pill is supposed to take away??!!

Less Common side effects: Chills, depressions, suicidal thoughts...Oh no! Now if the stomach cramps didn't kill me the depression would! Hmmm. Great medicine. Go Bayer.

Any hopes to be discovered as a western blond bollywood star vanished…not sure there is a role for vomiting diarrhea girl who takes her own life.

Spicy Island

Thank God for Zanzibar! The fresh ocean breezes and warm grinning people quickly helped me recover (from those suicide urges, of course). Zanzibar is a beautiful collection of islands off the coast of Tanzania. I was on the main island in the old spice trading town of Stonetown. Zanzibar is the second largest exporter of spices, second only to India. Not bad for such a small place! I fell in love with the beaitful island and decided to highlight a few key learnings and experiences:



1. Mambo Jambo Hakuna Matata. I arrive in Zanzibar and quickly forget my ills. Laughing grinning Africans greet me with Mambo! Jambo! and lots of jokes. They all seem to love life even more than I do! I quickly discover that the island has no electricity. Oh, it must be the storms (naturally the rains follow me to any beach destination..par for the course..). "Oh no...the the power has been out for a week now. Dar Es Salaam has turned off the power to the island. Could be months..." They shrug and smile and laugh again. Oh. Apparently there was some issue with Zanzibar paying taxes or something. Hmmm...okay well I am adaptable. Hakuna Matata. No worries (I actually remembered this line from "The Lion King"). Afterall, there were a few generators around, right?...and I had a box of matches and exceptionally large pupils. I was prepared for Africa.



2. It's an Arab World. To say Zanzibar has an Arab influence is an understatement. The women wore traditional hijabs, arabic scripts lined the solid wood doors, and stores opened and closed around mosque hours. The Turquoise beaches would have to wait....I covered myself up and set out about town to learn the rich history of the island. One interesting tidbit: A sultan from Oman ruled the island for many years and is said to have personally led the international slave trade in the 1800s. I visited the old slave market and holding quarters. Sitting down the cramped suffocating confines gave a whole new feeling to the horrors that occurred just 150 years ago.



3. "Dr Livingston I presume?" Dr. Livingston was a famous Scottish missionary who traveled across Central and East Africa and spent a lot of time in Zanzibar. He did the usual missionary things, built churches, saved lives...oh just managed to convince the Sultan to END THE SLAVE TRADE. Minor things really. And what is my worldly contribution to Africa? Writing about diarrhea on my blog? Sigh...maybe i should volunteer after my safari....Anyway the famous quote came after Livingston was LOST for SIX YEARS somewhere in deep dark Africa and one of his fellow do-good friends had to come and find him. The endless search came to a..well...end when he was finally found in a tiny village and greeted with that famous quote. Well, I have been nearly lost myself. I wonder if Monica will greet me in Arusha with "Ms. Isern, I presume?"



4. International Tourists, I love ya! I met Dawn, a South African living in Dar Es Salaam, and Vishal, and Indian living in Dubai in my beautiful hotel (expat central it seemed). Both were on the island for business. They insisted the best cure for my shaky stomach was a strong drink. "Better kill that stuff with vodka!" And so the night started. We went to Mercury's (a bar named after Freddie Mercury of Queen, who was born on the island) and then to an amazing 5 star feast on a rooftop terrace under the stars. We ordered wine liberally, somebody got smokes, and we stared a raucous game of 'Truth or Dare', traumatizing everyone else in the restaurant. Yes we had a blast with the game you played at slumber parties when you were 13. We tried to refine it a bit. "Heidi, I dare you to stand on the table and talk about wine pairing!" However silly it may seem, I encourage all of you to play again sometime...with strangers. You would be surprised at what you learn....hidden fears, deep regrets, and lifelong loves, not to mention the names of a few emerging South African wines. We ate and drank till quite late and sadly I woke up with not only a slight hangover...but an upset stomach once again. Time for the bottle of suicidal thoughts...sigh.