Mutiny on Halong Bay

Once again I was in my element...cruising along the water with an international motley bunch, sticky with sunscreen and sweat, mesmerized by the exotic landscape before me. Halong is currently competing to be recognized in the list of the top "World Wonders." I can see why--It's hauntingly beautiful. Majestic tall rocks rise out of the salt waters, shrouded in mist, as if from another time.


Our group was eager to sail through the rocks and caverns, kayak and swim on our three day tour. Unfortunately we were met with a bit of bad luck. Our poor tour guide, Nam, explained to us that our boat had been "chosen" to represent some dinky festival at Halong Bay harbour. So while the other ships sailed freely with gleeful tourists, we were to stay docked for the first few hours of our trip, smelling fumes from other (non tourist) boats, and listen to the tinny music coming from shore. Imagining the other tourists on other boats frolicking in the ocean while we stayed tied to shore immobile was too much. Many of us had watched James Bond (dubbed by a single lone Vietnamese voice) and were in powerful spirits. The music coming from shore was truly awful, and we were positive we were the only tourists that had been "captured" and forced to stay in the bay twiddling our thumbs.

Peter, an intimidating muscled dutchman started the complaints and demanded to sail. He towered over little Nam. 'We are not stupid tourists you know. You better call your boss because we won't stand for this."

Then Three Germans demanded free beer...and threatened to steal it if not offered freely.

Two french Canadians, sweet in their accents, yet firm in their position requested reparations immediately.

And I, the American, threatened to write bad reviews of the boat on yelp.com and perhaps even do the American thing and seek legal action for "pain and suffering" compensation. I was bound to get a migraine from the boat exhaust.

Nam claimed to have called the boss. "I am sorry, " he said. "Can you not relax for a few hours?"



We counted the staff--they outnumbered us. But no matter. The Germans headed toward the beer fridge. Peter eyed the captain's chair. Nam frantically called the boss for the fourth time and pleaded our case again.

And what do you know.....an hour later we were among the other boats in the ocean drinking freely offered beer, mesmerized by the silent giant ocean rocks.