Thursday, April 3, 2008

Surfing My Saviour


Yesterday morning I couldn't shake the feeling that I had made a huge mistake. Unlike most people that came to Byron, I was NOT here to play hackey sack, hook up with a hippy lover, party til dawn, or go to Nimbin to smoke myself silly on weed. I was older than most, many here just on their first international adventure. Even though most took me for 25 (thank God for sunscreen) I sure didn't feel it. This whole 'adventure' seemed a mistake. I'm too grown up. A relationship aborted, a down payment on a house gone, and exciting career opportunities stalled. (plus I would be missing SF's 'Bay to Breakers' race!). What the hell was I doing?

Then I got on the surf bus. Sean, the guide, decided that Byron beaches were too crowded and so he took us to a secluded spot about 15 minutes away. We had the entire beach to ourselves! Perfect glassy 3-4 foot rolling waves....


I paddled out determined, and amazingly caught the first wave I attempted. I felt the rush of the drop down, the the thrill of the perfect left, and the euphoria of being able to do this once again.

Salty hair flying, I looked around at the vast sea and remembered why I was here. To learn from the ocean, live in the present, and feel nothing but my board underneath me and the rising waves that pushed me forward.

Regrets and mistakes melted into the racing waters.

This will be my new identity. My reason to go to bed early and wake up with the sun. My inspiration to write every day...nothing more that the feelings of that day itself. Perhaps I seem a bit standoffish (or plain boring) to the Byron population, but once I explain, they tip their hat (or beanie, or dreds..) in respect. Even my party crazed dorm mates.

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