What seems like ages ago, I wrote how surfing saved my purpose. I had serious misgivings about taking my three month "personal sabbatical" but somehow those Australian waves made my decision to take on the world make sense once again.
http://whitechameleon.blogspot.com/2008/04/surfing-my-saviour.html
After going back at it in the cold California waters, I think it may have done the same thing. Today was far from my best day. The new shorter board was wobbly underneath me. My turns were far from stellar as the rushing wind seemed bent on knocking me over. My first drop down was a nose dive to the bottom of the ocean.
But still I returned home exhausted and happy and much more at ease with what life threw at me.
Those that know me know I am not a laid back girl. Sometimes I wonder if redbull runs through my veins as I am more hyper than a terrier and more competitive than a soccer team. I tell people that just like most animals, I too need to be exercised every day lest I tear around the house and shred things. My mind runs faster than my limbs and the gears go on overdrive second guessing, scheming and trying to re-shape life into something I deem more appropriate. Can't I force my opinions on the world?
Surfing, somehow, calms me down. It teaches me patience. Afterall, not every wave is catchable. It makes me realize that timing rules the world and can take on strength and love any day. So better to relax and let the life run its course. You cannot hold onto things, or people, that do not want to be held onto. And I also know that even on the crappiest of outings, there is still a wave of the day. So I persevere waiting for it to find me.
It always does....mostly when I least expect it. And I commit to it, embrace it, and ride it in with the grin of somehow who just discovered love.
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